Rough Framing

  • All walls should be framed 16” on center.
  • Bottom plates of all walls will require pressure treated material.
  • All plates should be installed using construction adhesive and be power nailed to the concrete.
  • Always frame walls with 2 x 4’s.
  • Soffits should be built of plywood or OSB and 2 x 4’s, not 2 x 2’s.
  • Always use a 5-foot level to plumb the walls.


  • All electrical and plumbing penetrations thru the top plates need to be filled with expanding foam or caulk to stop air movement.
  • Use fiberglass batts for sound deadening in walls and ceiling.
  • Use closed cell sprayed foam when insulating the outside walls. It is more expensive but will provide a high R-value, no air infiltration, no mold issues and a quiet space.
  • When installing ridged foam panels, always tape the seams and use a foil-covered product that will reflect the heat back into the space.
  • Use fiberglass batts for fire blocking.
  • When using fiberglass batts, use 4 mill poly, caulk around the edges and tape the seams.


  • Use a good carpet pad to put over concrete. It never pays to purchase cheap carpet, it will save money in the long run.
  • Carpet with no pattern will cost less to install. Also, carpet comes in different widths, pick one that is close to the room width and you have fewer seams and less waste.
  • Take the time to research the flooring products for each room and how it will be used.
  • Use ceramic or porcelain tile, it doesn’t cost much more than vinyl to install.
  • Don’t be afraid to use an engineered wood-flooring product over concrete.


  • Get a custom made shower door, the units at the big box stores are one size fits all; they never look good and they leak.
  • Use a ¼” custom cut mirror if possible. Have the cabinet shop make a frame for the mirror. It can be stained and designed to match the cabinets.
  • Use glass doors and shelves in the upper bar cabinets when possible. It will make them seem bigger and add a great design feature.